Michelin-starred chefs love experimenting and creating eye-catching dishes, but this time in South Korea, something has gone wrong. In the capital, Seoul, a restaurant with no less than two Michelin stars has come under investigation after officials from the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety discovered, through online customer reviews, that ants were used in a dish. The problem isn't related to hygiene or the quality of the product itself, but rather to a specific regulatory detail: in South Korea, these animals aren't on the list of ten insect species authorized for human consumption (grasshoppers, locusts, and crickets are, however). According to the prosecution, the offending dessert was sold 12,200 times, for a total turnover of approximately $80,000. And, a few days ago, the prosecutor's office filed a request for a conviction.
Up to 55 Times More Heavy Metals Found in Ants Than in Other Insects
Imported from the United States and Thailand, investigators estimate approximately 49,000 ants were used, without ever seeking prior authorization. These animals were then analyzed by health authorities, who discovered a massive presence of heavy metals: up to 55 times more than in all other insects normally considered edible. However, the choice of this ingredient was not accidental: some studies have shown that in certain species, formic acid imparts a sour flavor reminiscent of vinegar or lemon, while in others, notes of hazelnut are found, which is why various chefs around the world use them as a garnish in their specialties.
Having evaded any type of investigation, the owner admitted to serving these insects, but according to his version, this particular ingredient was only used in a small portion of his tasting menu, as a topping for sorbets. Furthermore, he claimed, customers were always informed of the possibility of choosing alternatives such as fermented vinegar or edible flowers. Furthermore, the defense noted the widespread presence of ants in countries such as Denmark, the United Kingdom, and Australia, as well as their cultural and gastronomic value in countries such as Thailand, Cambodia, and Colombia.
The Accused Dessert
The protagonist of this singular story is Evett restaurant, a haute cuisine excellence located in the heart of Gangnam, Seoul. Opened in 2019 by Joseph Lidgerwood (Australian chef), the restaurant has captured the attention thanks to a bold interpretation of the country's ingredients and culinary traditions. This journey of research and creativity has earned the restaurant two Michelin stars, a far from obvious achievement. Suffice it to say that in the whole of South Korea, only ten restaurants can boast this recognition, all of which are concentrated in the capital.
Evett's culinary offering is a fifteen-course tasting menu, designed to take guests on a continuous sensory journey. Among the various tastings, there is also a sorbet made with sikhye, a famous traditional sweet drink made from fermented rice and malt. To balance the dessert's natural sweetness, the chef garnished it with three or five dried ants, giving the dish a distinct tangy note.
What The Restaurant is Risking
The prosecutor's office has asked the owner of the restaurant to serve a year in prison, plus a fine of 20 million Korean won, equivalent to approximately 13.674 dollars. When deciding whether to formally authorize an insect for human consumption, local health authorities always evaluate several factors, including health risks, toxicity, and nutritional value, but these ants failed the stringent regulatory review. The judge's final ruling on the matter is expected on September 2nd.
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