A Journey Through The History and Varieties of Mulled Wine

When the cold weather arrives and perhaps brings the first snow, but especially when the Christmas lights are turned on, ushering in the holiday season par excellence, there's nothing more delicious than a piping hot glass of mulled wine. Warm, enveloping, and fragrant, this spiced wine is exquisite snuggled up in front of the fireplace, but especially when strolling through the Christmas markets, even better if accompanied with a few sweet treats. In Northern Europe and the Italian Alpine regions, mulled wine is the typical drink at markets and, in general, during the Advent period, although it can actually be found throughout the cold months, from November until Carnival. The recipe has ancient origins, but even today it is a strong drink present in European tradition, and just holding a glass in your hand is enough to immediately smell the scent of the Christmas season. Let's discover the history, origins, and variations of mulled wine.

What is Mulled Wine and Where is It Drunk?

In Italy it's vin brulé, in German-speaking countries it's called glühwein, in French-speaking countries it's vin chaud, in Britain it's mulled wine: however you call it, we're talking about the same drink, a delicious blend of mulled wine, usually red, sugar, and aromatic spices, especially cinnamon, cloves, and citrus fruits. The peculiarity of this drink is precisely the fact that it's "cooked" and drunk piping hot, just as its name suggests: vin brulè comes from the French "vin brûlé," meaning "burnt wine," referring to the process of heating the wine, which evaporates some of the alcohol, making it less alcoholic.

Over the heat, the alcohol evaporates, and the spices and citrus fruits do the rest, further lightening the flavor of the red wine, making it perfect for sipping even for those who aren't particularly fond of alcoholic beverages. Invigorating and warm, mulled wine is often drunk in winter, and over time, it has become increasingly popular at Christmas markets in the coldest European countries (Slovenia and Norway, but also Germany and Great Britain, France and Croatia) and in the Alpine regions of Northern Italy, becoming the quintessential Christmas drink.

The History of Mulled Wine

It's not easy to trace the precise origins of mulled wine as we know it today, but what is certain is that the tradition of drinking hot, spiced beverages is very ancient, dating back to ancient Rome: the Romans, in fact, loved preparing this type of concoction, as Apicius attests in his "De re coquinaria." The writer describes the "conditum paradoxum," a wine sweetened with honey, which was heated repeatedly and flavored with saffron, pepper, spikenard leaves, and dates. It was traditionally offered to guests at the end of a meal and closely resembles the concept of mulled wine.

It was the Romans who spread the custom of hot, spiced wine-based drinks throughout Europe, a tradition that became even more popular during the Middle Ages. Hippocras (also called claret or piment), a wine flavored with medicinal herbs, was very popular during this period. It was said to have been invented by the Greek physician Hippocrates for its medicinal properties. Over the centuries, hot, spiced wine-based drinks became increasingly popular in many European countries: another example is the Swedish glögg, another ancient recipe that served both to improve the flavor of poor-quality wine by adding spices, but also cognac or rum, and to absorb the healing properties of the spices.

It's highly likely that the modern spread of mulled wine stems from the traditions of each individual country, which, offering its own unique take on spiced mulled wine, made it known both in its own variant and in a "traditional" and codified recipe, that of mulled wine as we know it today. According to some theories, the recipe for mulled wine appears during the 16th century, used during celebrations, banquets, and later, Christmas markets (due to the spices, which are the most common in typical desserts of this period). It was a drink symbolic of conviviality and its ability to create a carefree, relaxed, and cheerful atmosphere.

The Original Mulled Wine Recipe (And Variations)

The classic recipe for mulled wine calls for a drink made with red wine, spices, and citrus fruits, best enjoyed piping hot. It's easy to make at home; the key is choosing the perfect red wine: it should be full-bodied, structured, and fruity, making Lambrusco, Sangiovese, Barolo, and Pinot Noir the perfect pairing. Once you've chosen your wine, simply simmer it in a pot with the rest of the ingredients for about 15 minutes. The slow cooking process will help the wine lose some of its alcohol content, but if you'd like a more intensely flavored drink with a lower alcohol content, you can keep it on the stove for at least half an hour. To further remove some of the alcohol, some people "burn" the mulled wine by holding a flame close to the surface of the wine.

As always, however, the saying "when in Rome, do as the Romans do": even in the case of mulled wine, there are many variations of the drink, differing in the types of spices used and the type of wine, according to the traditions of specific countries. Among the most well-known and unique European variations are:

• Gluhwein (Germany). This is the German version of mulled wine, made with red wine, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves, cardamom, and orange or citron zest. You'll find it at every Christmas market, especially those in Munich. It's best served with Lebkuchen, the spiced gingerbread cookies typical of Nuremberg.
• In Austria, mulled wine is made with wine made from Schiava, also known as Vernatsch, and a little star anise is often added.
• Vin chaud (France). The French version, also popular in French-speaking Switzerland, is very similar to the Italian version but includes the addition of a splash of cognac, which gives the drink a little more character, as well as darkening it; it is usually served with bredele, Alsatian shortbread biscuits.
• Punch (Great Britain). There's no specific recipe; each family decides how to make it, based on local tradition: it's generally made with a base of water mixed with rum (but also tea and rum), or even brandy, to which citrus peel and spices like cinnamon and cloves are added.
• Glögg (Scandinavia). Originating in Scandinavia, especially Sweden, and a typical Christmas drink, the drink derives from the term "glödgat vin," meaning "mulled wine." It's made by heating red wine (or, in non-alcoholic versions, fruit juice) with spices such as cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, and ginger. It's served hot, often garnished with raisins and almonds.

Mulled wine doesn't just vary from one European country to another: the ingredients often vary depending on the region in which it's prepared, although the most common version is always made with red wine. The most unique variation is undoubtedly the Venetian one: here, mulled wine is made only with white wine, primarily Chardonnay or Pinot, with the addition of cinnamon, apple, and cloves; it's mostly consumed during panevin, the New Year's bonfire.