Tokyo is grappling with a rather serious problem: a rice crisis and skyrocketing prices. We're talking about one of the worst emergencies in decades, with the cost of a food that, for the Japanese diet, is practically essential and irreplaceable. The crisis began in May when, according to data released by the Ministry of Agriculture, the price of rice more than doubled. Given the situation, the Japanese government decided to release emergency stocks on the market in the hope that prices would stabilize. Given its geographic location where natural disasters can be just around the corner, Japanese authorities have set aside approximately one million tons of white rice equivalent, and it is precisely these resources that are being drawn upon in recent months.
So Will Sushi Become a Luxury?
If you're planning a vacation exploring cities like Tokyo, Osaka, or Kyoto, you should know that, with the poor rice harvest, the price of this staple is experiencing inflation. Keeping an eye on data from the Ministry of Agriculture, between late April and early May, the average cost of five kilograms of rice at the supermarket reached 4,233 yen (about 30 dollars), compared to 2,088 yen (14,81 euros) last year. This inflation has had a direct impact on rice-based dishes: from traditional onigiri (rice balls), which increased by 11.8%, to take-out meals (bento), which rose by 8.4%, and sushi served in restaurants, which saw an 8.4% increase.
It all started with a very disappointing harvest in the summer of 2023, caused by extremely high temperatures that compromised rice production, particularly the prized koshihikari variety, which is ideal for sushi. This was accompanied by a dramatic surge in tourism, which doubled after Japan's post-COVID reopening. Demand from this sector—and therefore, in part, from the restaurant industry—has been incredibly high, and satisfying it is becoming a highly delicate task. This is why the decision was made to release reserves intended for emergencies following various disasters onto the market. Since March, over 210,000 tons of rice have been sold through three public auctions, but results are slow to show: the National Federation of Agricultural Cooperatives (Zen-Noh), which purchased almost 90% of the rice at auction, has distributed just over 30% of the total.
The Gaffe and The Minister's Resignation
Amid this crisis, Japanese Agriculture Minister Taku Eto decided to make a gaffe that forced him to resign. It all happened after he declared, during a fundraising event, that he knew nothing about the rising rice prices because he had never had to buy it. This was because, as Eto explained, his supporters were responsible for supplying him with this food, and he had accumulated so much that he could even sell it.
His words have obviously sparked outrage in a country where rice is not just a food, but a key element of cultural identity. The rice crisis in Japan has thus highlighted the fractures in a national agricultural system that is collapsing in the face of climate change and market dynamics. While the government seeks solutions to stabilize prices and guarantee supplies, consumers and restaurateurs are facing a period of uncertainty and adjustment.
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