Salted anchovies are one of the most traditional preserves in Italian cuisine, having found their home in Liguria, earning them the PGI label. These fresh anchovies are cleaned and layered in glass containers (typical Ligurian ones are called Arbanelle) covered with plenty of coarse sea salt: this way they can keep for 2-3 years and acquire a complex and deep flavor. They are used on pizza, focaccia, and crostini with butter, and are a perfect ingredient for adding flavor to pasta, salads, and sauces. However, they are not a ready-to-use food: before using them in the most delicious recipes, they need to be desalted and cleaned. Let's see how.
The Tools You'll Need
Let's get this straight: desalting and cleaning salted anchovies is a simple but time-consuming process. It requires a bit of patience, which is why having the right tools can speed up the process. Here's what to keep on hand before getting started.
- Cutting board and knife: the latter is best if small and sharp, as it is used to handle small fish.
- Bowls: These can be glass or ceramic. We recommend two, one for soaking and one for the cleaned anchovies.
- Paper towels or a cloth: to dry the anchovies after washing.
- Disposable gloves: optional, but useful if you want to avoid direct contact with the fish, which tends to leave a lingering odor, or with the salt, which can burn any wounds.
- Kitchen tweezers: to remove any remaining spines.
How to Clean and Desalt Anchovies
At this point, you have everything you need to get to work. The process requires calm and a bit of precision, as you do n't want to ruin the anchovy flesh. Follow these steps:
1. Separate the Whole Anchovies From The Salt
Remove the anchovies from the jar and focus on them one at a time. First, shake the fish to immediately remove some of the salt, then use your fingers or a knife to scrape off the remaining salt. The anchovies in the jar may be compacted, so separate them very carefully to avoid breaking them.
2. Proceed to Soak
Place the anchovies in a bowl of cold water —never hot, or they'll fall apart—and let them soak for 15–30 minutes, changing the water if necessary. This will reduce the salt content without altering the flavor, and you can avoid waste by keeping the water running. You can also use a solution of water and white wine vinegar or dry white wine.
3. Clean and Dry
Once the anchovies have been de-salted, they need to be cleaned: scrub to remove the dorsal fin and scales, open them open like a book with your hands (the innards are missing because they were already removed previously) and grasp the central bone, pulling it outward, so as to obtain two separate fillets. If you see any bones, remove them with tweezers. Pat the fillets dry with paper towels or a cloth: they are ready to be used immediately or stored.
How and For How Long Can They Be Preserved?
How are they preserved? Easy, by preserving them in oil, because without the natural protection of salt, they quickly deteriorate: take a sterilized jar and arrange the anchovy fillets in layers, alternating them with a drizzle of oil and herbs and spices to taste, then cover them completely with extra virgin olive oil. Close the jar tightly and store in the refrigerator. For how long? 4-5 days, maximum a week.
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