“You have to let the grounds settle, you have to know how to wait” is the phrase that Diego Abatantuono says to Claudio Bisio in a famous scene from the film Mediterraneo, after the latter dives into a freshly poured cup of Greek coffee, while it is still boiling hot and the powder feels like sand in his mouth. There is probably no representation that better describes this drink, both materially and immaterially: Greek coffee is made by boiling very finely ground coffee beans in water and, once ready, it is slowly left to cool, to be enjoyed slowly. Let's see how it's made in detail and why it's a ritual, like espresso (even if they are very different).
How to Prepare Greek Coffee
For anyone who's vacationed in the Peloponnese or the islands, it's likely been difficult not to come across kafeneia (καφενεία), the classic Greek cafés, halfway between a bar and a club, where you can sip coffee in peace, perhaps spending an entire afternoon at the table nibbling on mezes (various typical Greek appetizers) or lokum, soft sweets flavored with rose water, and playing tavli, the local version of backgammon, like a true local. Bringing that relaxed atmosphere home isn't entirely impossible, since making a homemade Greek café requires a little patience to wire it up to your tastes and a suitable tool, which, however, can be replaced.
First of all, it's important to note that Greek coffee isn't filtered like espresso or moka pots, but is instead boiled in a small brass pot called a briki — the same one used to make Turkish coffee, known as ibrik — with a long handle to prevent burns. Since this type of container isn't very common in the U.S., it can be replaced with a long milk jug. The main steps are as follows:
- Pour the water and the very finely ground coffee (it should have a sandy consistency, preferably a blend of Arabica and Robusta) into the briki, measuring out the amount of both needed for the cups you will serve: a traditional briki has a volume that can hold 3-4 portions.
- At this point you can already choose whether you want it with a teaspoon of sugar (metrios), two (glykos) or without sugar (sketos), so you can adjust the sweetness.
- Mix all the ingredients well and place on low heat, allowing the liquid to boil slowly, stirring only occasionally.
- Once it reaches temperature, a foam called kaimaki will form. Let it cover the entire surface of the pan, then remove from the heat.
- Pour the coffee into the cups generously, almost to the brim, and don't stir it any more: it should have a dense consistency.
- Before consuming and discovering its intense, aromatic flavor, wait for the coffee grounds to settle. The grounds, in fact, should not be drunk; in fact, when you encounter them after several sips, it's a sign you've reached the end.
Greek Coffee Vs. Turkish Coffee
Compared to espresso, Greek coffee made in this way has a lower concentration of caffeine, as it is not filtered, and a higher quantity of antioxidants and polyphenols. It also has a cloudy appearance, releasing more residue. One could say that it is very similar to Turkish coffee: the root, in fact, is the same – the preparation technique was perfected in Yemen in the 16th century – but it differs mainly in its lighter color due to the single boiling (while in Turkish coffee it is at least twice) and the absence of any additional spices, it also tends to be more concentrated. In any case, historically there has been bad blood between Greeks and Turks (from the Ottoman Empire to the recent clashes in the 1970s over the partition of Cyprus) and the subject of coffee remains controversial: what is certain is that in Greece people order a Greek coffee and in Turkey a Turkish coffee.
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